Pandolce Genovese · Pandolce Basso Genovese

Liguria · dolce · serves 12 · 180 min total · easy

Genoa's Christmas cake, served at the close of the Christmas Eve dinner. The pandolce basso is the older form (the taller pandolce alto came later, with industrial yeast). Tradition: an olive branch is pinned to the top, the youngest cuts the first slice, the eldest blesses the table, and a whole slice is saved for the first poor person to pass the door on Christmas morning.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Drain and pat the sultanas. Toss with a spoon of flour so they don't sink.
  2. In a wide bowl, rub butter into flour with sugar, baking powder, and salt to a fine crumb.
  3. Add milk, Marsala, orange flower water. Bring together into a dough — it should be firm but not dry. Don't overwork.
  4. Knead in the raisins, candied citron and orange, pine nuts, fennel seeds. Distribute evenly.
  5. Shape into a low round dome, about 24 cm across and 4 cm tall — this is the pandolce basso, the older, lower-rising version. Set on a lined baking tray.
  6. With a sharp knife, cut a triangular slash on top — Genoese tradition says the youngest at the table makes the first cut.
  7. Bake at 170°C (340°F) for 45–55 minutes — deep gold on top, fully baked through (a skewer should come out clean).
  8. Cool fully. The texture is short, crumbly, biscuit-like, not bread-like. Keeps beautifully in a tin for two weeks.

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